April 5:
The goal today was to head eastward to the Hoge Veluwe national park and the Kroller Muller art museum, to meet Jeremy who would be coming by bicycle from Amstelveen (90 kilometres in one day!)
We chose to go exclusively side roads rather than motorways, which is a much prettier and more satisfying way to go, though it made for a 3 hour drive rather than 2 hours. Some of the roads were literally single track, where we had to slow and move over for approaching traffic, but it was all pastoral countryside, small villages and dike tops.
The early part of the route took us through Dordrecht, so we stopped over for a bicycle tour of the old town. Another unexpected surprise! We parked in a more modern section, but as we rode toward the harbour we were in small cobbled streets opening onto small “havens”, or enclosed little harbours. One haven was set aside especially for classic old riverboats and hemmed in with picturesque old lift bridges. The weather unfortunately continued to be very cold, very windy, and on and off drizzle.
We settled into the Beek en Hei campground on the edge of the Hoge Veluwe at about 4 pm. We stayed here in 2010 as the first campground of our epic 12 month adventure that year.
Jeremy arrived about 5:30 from his 5 hour bike trip. We have rented a “hikers cabin” for him because there is simply not enough room in the van for three adults. The weather has finally cleared, but that means dipping night time temperature… probably zero tonight, but we do have electricity and thus heat as needed.
Sunset near campground at Kinderdijk
Classic boat haven at Dordrecht
A demonstration of our shopping technique when the store is a bit distant from parking.
The cabin at the campground near Hoge Veleuwe park
April 6:
One of the few bright sunny days of our trip, and ideal for a bicycle through the Home Velouwe park to the Kroller-Muller Museum. We have been to this art museum twice before, but it still takes the breath away (and not just because of the 20 minute bike ride).
It is based on the collection of Helene Kroller-Muller, begun in 1907 through 1922, and the beautiful, bright open concept building was opened 1938. The collection contains the second largest Van Gogh collection in the world, with some 40 of his works including the bridge at Arles, the yellow cafe and the potato eaters. It also has Picasso, Seurat, Monet, Mondrian… all evidence of Kroller-Muller’s perspicacity in her time. Pat particularly enjoys the Barbara Hepworth and Henry Moore sculptures in the massive outdoor garden, Bill’s favorites are the Giacometti sculptures and the Lipschitz sculptural paintings. We left feeling still ready for another visit sometime soon.
In late afternoon we set off back to Amstelveen so Jeremy could get back to his kids for the weekend before flying back to Saudi Arabia Sunday. We all had dinner together at the house, but then we chose to go to the nearby Amsterdamse Bos Campground rather than impose of the family on this busy weekend.
and Jeremy behind.
Entering the garden.
The bridge at Arles as Van Gogh saw it
And as we saw it.
Lipschitz sculpture
April 7:
Pat and I parked the van back at the Amstelveen house, then bicycled into Amsterdam along the Amstel river. This was the first bright sunny Saturday of Spring so the river was crowded with an huge assortment of rowing sculls, and the bike routes were bustling.
We parked our bikes at Rembrandtsplein and spent the day wandering the eastern side of the central canal system. There were a couple of big markets to browse (we bought nothing but a little packet of fries slathered in mayonnaise). We discovered the Nieuwemarkt area, a big square surrounded by cafes and souvenir shops, with “coffee shops” mixed in liberally. “Coffee Shops” are not for buying coffee, but rather another sort of mood altering organic product. It is ironic that tobacco smoking is now banned form all indoor public facilities, but the extremely pungent fumes from the coffee shops still predominate.
We met Jeremy and Nyah for a mid afternoon meal at an Italian Restaurant, then left them for some clothes shopping while we grabbed our bikes for a bit more touring, then the long ride home.
We will stay at the house tonight so that we can drive Jeremy to the airport first thing in the morning.
Cinquecenti, grandad and grandson spotted along the Amstel.
Pat in a melee at Rembrandtsplein.
View at Nieuwemarkt with de Waags Hall... oldest public building in Amsterdam.
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